Selenium deficiency in goats is associated with selenium deficient soils and the inadequate uptake of selenium by forages grown on these soils. If the soil is deficient in selenium, the forage your goats eat will also be deficient in selenium leading to deficiencies in your herd. Selenium levels in soil vary dramatically regionally. A map showing selenium can be found at (https://mrdata.usgs.gov/geochem/doc/averages/se/usa.html). Vitamin E deficiency is independent of soil type and is more closely related to forage quality. Fresh legumes and pasture are are good sources of vitamin E and stored feeds tend to be poor sources of vitamin E. Stored feeds can lose up to 50% of their vitamin E per month. All breeds of goats are susceptible to WMD (white muscle disease) but it is most common in newborns or fast growing young animals.

Symptoms. The disease (WMD) affects both the skeletal and the cardiac muscles. Skeletal symptoms vary from stiffness to obvious pain when walking or an inability to stand. Kids may tremble in pain when held in a standing position. Hunched animals with a stiff gait are also common. Deficiencies occur in newborns, they are born weak and may not be able to get to their feet. Adult deficient animals may have poor conception rates, abortions, stillbirths and miscarriages, retained placentas, or deliver weak kids. Cardiac symptoms can appear to be pneumonia like. They include difficulty breathing, frothy nasal discharge, and fever. Heart rate and respiratory rate are elevated and irregular. Both the skeletal and the cardia types often occur at the same time.

It all sounds bad, doesn’t it? The good news is that when WMD affects the skeletal muscles it can be treated with supplemental selenium and vitamin E. Animals typically respond within 24 hours. Cardiac muscle damage is often permanent.

Conclusion. WMD can be prevented by supplementing selenium and Vitamin E in areas where soils are deficient. Total daily consumption of selenium must not exceed 0.7 mg/head/day. Ideally, the total diet for goats should contain between 0.10 to 0,3 ppm of selenium. There are several forms of selenium available as a supplement. We utilize a free choice “goat block” that contains a small amount of selenium. Additionally, we administer a selenium and vitamin E gel every 1-2 months. Injectable forms are also available as a Rx but we do not utilize this form due to the potential to overdose.

We recently were asked, “how do I know if I have too much selenium in my goats diet“? Good question! This is how you can calculate how much selenium you are feeding your goats. First, you will need to look at the selenium content of your all your forages, grains, goat block, and other feeds and supplements. Once you know the amount of selenium in each part of the diet you can calculate the amount of selenium you are feeding.

Example: Our goats weigh 100 pounds and are eating a total of 5 pounds of dry matter daily (4 pounds of alfalfa, .75 pound of grain mix, and .25 pounds of goat block.

Alfalfa; 4 lb (1.8 kg) x 0.523 ppm Se = 0.94 mg Se
Grain mix: .74 lb (0.34 kg) x 0.18 ppm Se = 0.06 mg Se
Goat Block: .25 lb (0.11 kg) x 1.2 ppm Se = 0.03 mg Se
Selenium gel (once every 30 days): 4 gm (.004 kg) x 2 ppm/30 days = 0.0003 mg Se
Total: 0.94 + 0.06 + 0.03 + 0.0003 = 1.03 mg Se in total diet (5 lb. DM = 2.27 kg DM)
Total ppm in diet – 1.03/2.27 = .45 ppm Se

The National Resource Council (2007) reports that the maximum tolerable concentration of selenium is 5 ppm for goats (5 mg/kg). So, this diet does not exceed the maximum tolerable concentration.

It is important to remember, depending on your area grains and forages can be higher in selenium. Be sure to check your feed and supplement labels and even consider getting your forages tested to determine Selenium levels.

Garden vegetables are typically finished growing by September and have already been harvested, processed, canned, frozen or stored in the root cellar.  Soon the temperatures will dive and the snow will stay – only a short window of opportunity to lay in the stores of food required for the entire year ahead.  

Because we don’t heat our barn outbuildings, we begin raising all of our meat animals in early spring so they are mature and ready for processing by October.  First was the lamb.  Our good friends love lamb but did not want a whole one for themselves. 

The best option was to split one between  us.  The lamb was locally grown, a requirement for us as homesteaders, and at 120 pounds perfect for sharing between two families.  It was the first attempt at butchered a lamb and, truthfully, it was the easiest animal we have ever processed.  Our first lamb chops were accompanied by Ginnie’s home-made mint jelly.  It was truly the best lamb we had ever every tested, bare none!  We keep saying, quality food begins and ends with 1) growing your food (or obtaining from known local producers), and 2) proper butchering (or processing) techniques.  

The pigs were next .  Last year we bought our piglets in mid-June and they weren’t ready until early November.  Typically it takes 5 months for a wiener to mature to an ideal slaughter weight, but November is a little late temperature-wise in SW Montana (it was -6 degrees in early November last year).  So, we bought the piglets in May this year.  Well, those Duroc crossed piggies grew rapidly and by the end of August they were 250 and 290 pounds!  Luckily, the 80 degree temperatures cooled down for a couple days, so into the freezer they went.  We only keep one hog for edification and sell the other.  After scrumptious sampling of pork, the buyers immediately put their order in for a hog next year.

Next on the processing list were last years laying hens.  Chickens generally lay most of their eggs within a year after they begin producing.  Production slowly drops off  after that making the egg production to feed ratio drop (i.e. it costs more to raise an egg).  Thus, we cull the older hens to make room for this year’s pullets who are laying an egg per day consistently.  We have a large enough chicken coop for 30 hens to reside comfortably.  We raise between 15-20 replacement chicks every spring and reduce the flock to manageable numbers each fall.  Granted, the layer hens were not bred to be “meat birds” but they are excellent when  prepared in the instant pot for chicken soup, chicken and dumplings, chicken broth, etc.

Finally, mid-October brings cooler temperatures and the beginning of big game hunting seasons.  It is not uncommon for us to harvest an antelope, one or two deer, and an elk every fall.  We process all of our own game ourselves so we know exactly how it is processed (we never cut through a bone and remove all fat and connecting tissues) and package the meat according in quantities that serve our personal meal sizes.

After hunting season is over and the season of filling the freezer is past, we relax just a little bit knowing that the best quality food (ever) is in the freezer ready for the cold months ahead.  

First, the history lesson.  We use the same tools to make sauerkraut that were commonly used before there was refrigeration and electricity  which includes a cabbage shredder and a stoneware crock.  My grandmother used this particular cabbage shredder at the turn of the century.  It is the No. 672 T. & D. Special.  It was made by Tucker and Dorsey Manufacturing.  The company was established in 1865 in Indianapolis, IND and became one of the largest household and business products companies in the world.  The shredder has stainless steel blades inlaid in a wooden box. Another box, to hold the food, sits atop the blade box. The user glides the wood box, lubricated by bees’ wax, along the blade box to shred cabbage. 

This Tucker and Dorsey design was much safer than shredding by hand and was even marketed as a “sanitary” slicer. Although the Tucker and Dorsey Company had a patent on the design, there were still many copies.  These devices were originally marketed as Kraut Slicers or Cabbage Slicers, but became known as Mandolins in 1930 when it was observed that French chefs “played” their food slicers in the same way a musician plays a Mandolin.

Lets begin!  Using old No. 672, shred 1-3 heads of fresh cabbage from the garden, pack the shredded cabbage into the crock one layer at a time.  Over each layer sprinkle a little salt (1-1.5 teaspoons per pound of cabbage) and press it into the crock a clenched fist. The salt will draw out the moisture from the cabbage and form a layer of juice over the cabbage in the crock (option – add 0.5 teaspoons of sugar per pound of cabbage). When you are finished layering the cabbage in the crock, place a ceramic dish over the cabbage/juice and weigh it down with a clean weight (we use a heavy rock).  Place a lid or cellophane over the top.

Keep the crock in a warm location (room temperature) for about 2 weeks and allow to ferment.  Scum will form, so don’t be surprised – this is normal.  Remove the weight and plate,  dip out the scum and discard it.  Test the cabbage for texture and taste.   When the flavor and texture are satisfactory, transfer the sauerkraut to jars.  You can then use the water bath canning process to store your sauerkraut or you can simply take an amount you will eat at a meal and then reseal the crook.  The latter process has a much shorter shelf life.

That is all there is to it!  One note:  Originally, sauerkraut was not sour at all, but was naturally sweet.  The German word sauer refers to the fermentation process and kraut refers to cabbage.

Enjoy!

At long last, the pullets have started laying multi-colored eggs.  There is something magical about that first new pullet egg of the season.  One never tires of it!

When do Chickens Begin Laying?  At around 18 weeks of age (depending on the breed) we switch out feed from the “chick starter” mix to a complete “layer feed” in anticipation of the first farm fresh eggs of the season from our new pullets.  From that moment our egg-ticipation is over and then nearly every day brings a little celebration when new eggs are collected. 

How Many Eggs Do Chickens Produce?  High producing, well fed free-range hens will lay up to 250 eggs per year (again, depending on the breed).  It takes 24-26 hours for a hen to create each egg.  Also, hens will take a natural bread from laying called “molting”, often as days get shorter in fall.

Which Breeds are the Best Layers?  The best laying breeds are different for various geographic locations and strongly depends upon the climate and feed management.  Our favorite egg laying breeds are the Red Star and the Black Star.  They are brown egg layers and production-wise are amazing!  They are great foragers and seem to be able to survive our cold SW Montana winters quite well even for their smaller size.  Another of out favorites in the Black Australorp.  As the name states, they originated in Australia and came to the US in the 1920’s.  They are a heavier breed and survive well in cold climates.  The are very good brown egg layers, quiet and very gentle.  Their handsome feathers are glossy black with greenish-purple sheen.  We also raise Americana’s and Whiting True Blue and Whiting True Greens for their green and blue colored “Easter eggs”.  And of course, we add too the palette with white egg laying Pearl Leghorn’s (my Grandmother raised Pearl Leghorns in the early 1940’s).

How Long will they Lay?   Hens peak their production within the first year of life.  The first eggs are small and get bigger over time.  As they get older egg size stays consistent and eventually egg count will begin dropping.  After two years the hen will lay 20% less eggs compared to its first year (under ideal conditions).  At Fasching Farm, we typically cull hens at about two years of age and annually raise replacement chicks. 

How Much do they Eat?  Mature hens will eat 0.25 lbs (about ½ cup) of feed per day plus “extras” like garden veggies, black oil sunflower seeds, etc.  One rule of thumb we use – we offer only about 2 tablespoons of extra treats on any day.  If you give more than 10% of their diet as treats egg production will decline.  

Yes, summer is coming to a close.  And even though the egg-ticipation is gone, we still watch in awe as our chickens, in exchange for a little feed and water, give us abundant, beautiful and delicious eggs.  Ah, the homestead life!

There is great satisfaction raising your own food and chicken is no exception.  Raising your poultry as a meat source is a way to live more sustainably while having control over where your food comes from. It is gratifying to know what goes into them, how they are raised,  how they are processed and finally, knowing there is  a years supply of fresh, tender chicken in the freezer.

There are a couple of general options when it comes to raising chickens for meat.  You can buy hybrid chicks that are specifically bred to grow rapidly and produce a high volume of meat in a short couple of months. Or you can raise dual-purpose heritage chickens that grow much more slowly (reaching full growth in about six months), but can also provide eggs.

Meat Chicken Breeds
Which meat chicken breed is best?  That is usually the first questions we get asked,  The white Cornish Crosses are a mix between a Cornish rooster and a White Plymouth Rock hen, and are known as the “Meat Kings” or simply “Jumbo Cornish X Rocks”. They are a very popular choice because they are the most efficient at converting their feed to muscle weight. By the time they are between eight and ten weeks old, they are ready to be processed as broilers. They can also be kept a little longer to be used as roasters. Some colored hybrids are also available, although they grow a little more slowly, maturing in about 11 weeks.  In our experience, they are also more difficult to pluck cleanly (we typically skin our birds), but sometimes people find the meat more flavorful than the white hybrids.  After raising both the cornish X rocks and several different hybrids we generally raise hybrids because we have seen have fewer leg issues and less mortality.

Some of the heritage breeds that are great dual-purpose egg and meat chickens are Plymouth Rock, Delaware, Wyandotte, and New Hampshire (to name a few).  They have a slower growth rate than the meat breeds. These reach target weight around 15-16 weeks, and their meat is firmer with a lower fat content due to the fact that they are such good foragers. Also, in general, the chicken flavor of the meat can be more intense because they are slaughtered at an older age.

How to Raise Chickens for Meat
We order our meat birds in January (to ensure availability) and they are delivered mid-April.  In SW Montana, temperatures are still pretty chilly so you have to have a brooder or set up to keep the chicks warm until they can get outside.  The brooder should give warmth, ventilation, and protection from predators. They will only be in it for about a 3-4 weeks so. think simple. Chicks require a minimum of 0.75 sq.ft. each in a brooder, so make sure you plan accordingly when you order your chicks. The floor needs about four inches of litter, whether you use wood shavings and/or newpaper.

Use a small waterer initially to prevent drowning, but keep it filled because they will go through a lot of water to wash down the feed. Use a chick-sized feeder (don’t forget the chick grit sprinkled on top like salting your food). When the chicks come, dip their beaks in the water as you gently put them into the brooder. They will instinctively find the food.  And always feed a meat bird food that is at least 22% protein.  We also add vitamins to their water from the beginning.

Use a heat lamp or radiant heater to keep the area warm. Then keep an eye on them for the first few days and in extreme weather when temperatures can fluctuate wildly . If they scatter away from the lamp, they are too hot; if they huddle together under the lamp, it isn’t warm enough. You should raise or lower the lamp accordingly to adjust the temperature based on their behavior. As a general rule, you can use the following temperature guidelines: The first week, the temperature should be 95°F. Every week after that, reduce the temperature by 5°F until it’s down to 70°F, and at 4-5 weeks old remove the heat source altogether (weather permitting).

Around three weeks of age the chicks need two sq.ft. of space per bird.  You can now allow the birds to forage a bit or you can continue to keep them in an enclosed space. We keep our meat birds inside a large enclosure where they can forage about or retreat to a three sided shed for shelter (from heat and cold).

Feeding and Watering
This is another popular question and an important one- “what do I feed them?”  Meats bird (hybrids) require a higher protein diet than your layer hens.  It is essential that you provide them a feed that is at least 22% protein.  Because the modern hybrid meat chickens are selected for their fast growth rate and high feed efficiency (they put on weight fast), care must be taken to limit their food intake, especially during the first three weeks, or problems with legs and mortality will result.  We limit feed by removing the feeder at night and returning it again in the morning (12 hours).

We also provide the birds with a lot of fresh water and add vitamins and probiotics with every refilling. 

Processing.
Around six to eight weeks, if you are growing hybrids and you just want broilers, check to see if their weight is big enough (at least 5-6 pounds). At that point, you can begin processing them. If you want roasters, you will need to let them grow a few more weeks. Heritage breeds need to grow for a much longer period before they’ll reach a weight suitable for harvesting meat. Keep in mind that the edible portion of live weight differs by breed: about 75% for white hybrids, about 70% for colored hybrids, and about 65% for heritage breeds. This excludes fat, intestines, blood, head, feet, and feathers.

You have a few choices to make during processing.  Do you want chicken with the skin on or skinless?  Do you want the chicken whole or cut up?  As a child, we used to help our parents manually scald and then pluck feathers and it was not a fun job (burnt fingers, the stench of wet feathers) as I remember it.  If you are lucky enough to know someone with a time-saving automated poultry plucker, you could handle up to 3-4 birds at a time and be done plucking in minutes!  We like our chicken skinless and thereby can forego the entire plucking process altogether.  Either way, the payoff is great when it come time to simply open the freezer and pull out your own homestead raised chicken,

Enjoy!

You may have heard the term“sweat like a pig”? well, pigs they are actually unable to sweat. They like to bathe in water or mud to keep cool, and they actually prefer water to mud.

To thermoregulate, they rely on wallowing in water or mud to cool their body. Adult pigs under natural or free-range conditions can often be seen wallowing when air temperature get too warm.  Mud is the pigs suntan lotion; after wallowing, the wet mud provides a cooling, and sun  protecting, layer on their body.

 Fun Pig Facts

1. Pigs snuggle close to one another and prefer to sleep nose to nose. They dream, much as humans do. In their natural surroundings, pigs spend hours playing, sunbathing, and exploring.
2. Pigs communicate constantly with one another
3. Newborn piglets learn to run to their mothers’ voices and to recognize their own names. Mother pigs sing to their young while nursing.
4. Pigs appear to have a good sense of direction and have found their way home over great distances.
5. Pigs do not “eat like pigs” or “pig out.” They prefer to eat slowly and savor their food.
6. Pigs are clean animals. If given sufficient space, they will be careful not to soil the area where they sleep or eat. 
7. Pigs are extraordinarily intelligent. They are curious and insightful animals who are widely accepted as being smarter than most animals.
8. Pigs are very peaceful animals, rarely showing aggression. The exception, as with many animals, is when a mother (sow) with her young offspring is provoked or threatened.
9. Pigs have a tremendous sense of smell. The large round disk of cartilage at the tip of the snout is connected to muscle that gives it extra flexibility and strength for rooting in the ground.
10. Pigs have 15,000 taste buds! Humans have 9,000.
11. An adult pig can run up to 11 miles per hour.
12. Pigs drink up to 14 gallons of water every day.
13. Pigs live on every continent except for Antarctica.
14. Pigs have 4 toes on each foot but they only walk on 2.
15. People with allergies sometimes have pigs as pets because they have hair not fur and they does not shed.

At Fasching Farm we describe spring as “a time of staying up into the wee hours of the sub-zero degree mornings to birth goat kids, worrying about the safe arrival of hatchery chicks that always seem to be delivered during the coldest of days, and welcoming piglets that require a heat lamp at night to stay cozy.”  Springtime?  Not yet.   But, we would be remiss in mentioning the beautiful song of the meadow larks that welcome us in the crisp spring morning air, the bluebirds that suddenly appear overnight, the antelope babies that birth in our back yard, the early morning sun that shines through the bedroom windows beckoning us awake, and the pure white snow on the mountain tops promising life-giving irrigation water.

Life on the Fasching Farm homestead goes on regardless of weather.  Each morning we rise early to milk goats and are exuberantly greeted by the anxiously awaiting kids who were all put into a separate stall away from their dam the night before (or we would get no milk).  After milking, all the goats are released into a pasture, then we feed layer hens and collect the first eggs.  We say hello to the piglets who are snuggled into their bed of hay and feed them warmed goat milk “slop” (yes, they are spoiled) and move on to the baby chicks.  The meat bird chicks are already twice the weight of the layer chicks even though they are the same age.  We replenish waters and chick feed and then head to the house.  All that before 8:00 AM.  Time for a cup of coffee and our own breakfast.

We check the weather to see if, by chance, we might be able to plant some of the garden with the starts that seem to be growing inches a day indoors.  Spring planting is a bit of a guessing game most years.  Statistically, the latest killing frost recorded in SW Montana was June 29.  The earliest killing frost recorded was July 3.  Thankfully, those were in different years, but the growing season here is anyone’s guess! 

We check the weather to see if, by chance, we might be able to plant some of the garden with the starts that seem to be growing inches a day indoors.  Spring planting is a bit of a guessing game most years.  Statistically, the latest killing frost recorded in SW Montana was June 29.  The earliest killing frost recorded was July 3.  Thankfully, those were in different years, but the growing season here is anyone’s guess!

Spring will arrive one day – soon, I hope!  But for now we hope for rain and growing degree days versus the predicted snow. 

            Springtime in SW Montana?  Not yet.

In most cases, the doe will raise the kids herself and you will get to enjoy watching them grow and play.  Kids will nurse for 3 months or longer (every kid is different).  Nigerian Dwarf kids may begin grazing as early as 2 weeks of age and will eventually begin consuming more solid food and less milk from their dam.  Weaning can be stressful on kids, so it is important to keep a close eye on them during this period.

If you plan on bottle feeding kids, frequent small meals of milk (whole cow milk) is suggested. Young kids (2-4 weeks) should be feed every 4-5 hours (nighttime may be able to go a little longer). Feed them 5-6 ounces per bottle at first and then increase as they grow larger.   At 4-5 weeks they should get a bottle 4 times per day evenly spaced throughout the daylight (morning noon, evening, and just before bed) with 8 ounces milk. Weeks 5-6, move to three times per day with 8-10 ounces of milk.  At 7-10 weeks, give 2 bottles per day one in the morning and one in the evening 10-15 ounces per bottle. Weeks 10-12 start reducing the number of feedings or reduce the amount of milk.  This mimics the natural feeding behavior of kids. The goal is to have them completely weaned by 12 weeks.

You can use sturdy plastic water bottles (ones that won’t collapse easily) with a Pritchard Flutter Valve nipple (available at most feed or farm supple stores).  These nipples screw on to most standard water or soda bottles. Make sure the bottle is offered to the kids so that the bottle is positioned a bit higher so they have to reach up a bit to drink (so that the milk goes down the right tube) – think about a kid drinking from their mother. One important note – the milk you offer MUST bewarmed to 100 degrees to simulate a doe’s milk temperature.

In many cases, Nigerian Dwarf goats are more than just pets – they can also be used for milk or help keep pastures from becoming overgrown. If you do plan on keeping your goats in a pasture, you will need to supplement their diet. Even though goats eat weeds and brush, these types of forbs may not satisfy all the nutritional needs.  In general, the dietary needs of Nigerian Dwarf goats include:

• Access to clean water
• A constant supple of quality hay (or pasture)
• Supplementation with non-toxic greens (from garden for example)
• Daily mineral supplements
• A regular feeding routine (goats do not like “change”)

Fresh, clean water is essential. Nigerian Dwarf goats tend not to accept water that has been dirtied so you will have to check their water several times per day and change it if necessary.  Be careful where you place water troughs/buckets so that goats do not accidently urinate or defecate in them – if they do, change the water immediately.

Nigerian Dwarf goats typically will not eat food/hay that has touched the floor or ground. So, a small hayrack is required.  And although goats like a variety of foods in their diet, sudden changes in dietary routine could cause digestive issues.  Introduce changes to the diet slowly so stomachs can adjust.

Foods to avoid.

Alder                     Honeysuckle                      Daffodils                             Laburnum Laurel Walnut                                Foxglove              Ragwort Privet                   
Mayweed            Rhododendron                  Bryony
Celedine              Yew                                     Tulips                                   Delphinium Buttercup            Hemlock                             Nightshades       Dried apple leaves

Prior to the introduction of electricity in rural America, root cellars were the means of storing food long before the refrigerator and freezer were common household appliances.  Traditionally, the root cellar (or cold room) was an underground space built under or near the home, insulated by the ground and vented, so fresh cold air could flow in and warm air out.  Then, when sub-zero winter temperatures arrived, the vents were closed or plugged up, and the cellar stayed cold but not freezing. 

Unfortunately, most modern basements are too warm for long-term winter storage of garden produce.   However, a basement can be used for cold storage and that is why, when we began planning our homestead build a few years ago, one of the requirements included a functional root cellar capable of storing an assortment of garden produce held over from the summer/fall harvest.   In addition, in keeping with our homesteading values, the root cellar had to be designed so that all energy inputs to heat or cool the space were minimal (if any at all). 

The following is how we made our root cellar that fits into our homesteading lifestyle. When we initially designed our home, we decided to build a full basement rather than a crawl space foundation to allow for things like a root cellar.  In days past, root cellars were dug into the earth where the soil would insulate produce from the heat, cold, and dry air.   

Following that basic premise, we first selected the NW corner of the basement  where the concrete foundation (insulated by the soil) would help to naturally cool the the cold room on two sides.

Second, we erected two insulated walls and added the door to form the root cellar. The third (and most important) step was adding two vents (fresh cold air in, warm air out).  The two vents create a siphon effect that allow you to regulate the flow of cold outside air into the insulated cellar room, allowing  the temperature to remain near freezing through the winter months.

That is the principle.  However, our house is super-insulated plus the hydronic heating system keeps the basement toasty.  So, to ensure root cellar stays cold enough, we attached a powered bathroom style fan to the exhaust venting that automatically turns on to exhaust warm air and in turn draws in cool air through the fresh air inlet vent (via convection – warm air rises and is replaced by cold air).  The powered exhaust vent is wired to a universal electronic temperature control (see photo below) that has programmable “cut-in” and “cut-out” settings. 

For example, if the temperature in the root cellar reaches 50 degrees, the exhaust unit will cut-in until the temperature drops to 45 degrees and then cut-out.  This works well in SW Montana since the winter temps are typically below freezing while the basement heat keeps the temps from getting too cold.

There are several universal truths that remain constant and will help you create this type of optimal system even though every basement situation is unique.  
     1.  Location.  You will need access to the outside for fresh air, so choose a location  that has a window (remove the glass and install plywood to run pipe through) or one that will allow you to bore holes through the basement wall for the 4″ vent pipes.  In colder climates you can create an insulated panel to replace the glass by simply laminating a layer of 1/2″ thick exterior grade plywood to each side of a piece of 1-2″ thick polystyrene foam and then running the pipe through it.  Glue the sandwich together using polyurethane construction adhesive.
     2. Walls.  After picking your location you can turn your attention to the walls.  Things to consider include the size of a door (30″, 34″, 36″ …) you will use, how long and how wide the root cellar should be (that all depends on person choice and the amount of food you plan to store), will you use shelving, etc.  The possibilities are endless so take time to write all your ideas down before starting.  Our root cellar is roughly 13′ x 6′.  We utilized standard 2″ x 4″ lumber with 16″ OC spacing, sheet rock, and a 30″ re-purposed wood door.  One note:  it is always a good idea to use treated lumber on a concrete floor in case of damp conditions.
     3.  Insulation.  To keep the root cellar at the proper temperature you will more than likely need to insulate.  We used traditional fiberglass bats because we live in such a dry climate.  Moisture is your most important consideration.  If you are likely to get damp conditions for any reason, understand that fiberglass has almost no ability to resist mold growth and deterioration  when water is present.  Foam tolerates moisture much better.  Extruded polystyrene is especially good in this regard.  And don’t forget to insulate the ceiling.  Warm coming down from heated areas above will raise the cellar temperature too high.
     4.  Venting.  The key of a basement cellar is the two-vent design.  To function best, space the interior ends of the intake and exhaust pipes as far apart as possible.  Also, plan your shelving layout allowing as much air movement as you can achieve.  The cold air inlet should be designed so that the air is delivered as close to the floor as possible.  The exhaust vent should be located in or near the ceiling and exhausted to the out side.  If necessary, add a small power fan to the inlet pipe and/or the exhaust pipe to maintain temperature.  Last, be sure to cover the vent openings with screen to keep out insects and mice. 

Interestingly, we also use the root cellar as a “cheese cave”. The temperature requirements for cheese is about right. All we had to do is increase the humidity by adding a small bucket of water.

Your dreams of having an ideal root cellar is a venture worth planning for and the reality is, with a bit of planning, you can build your own root cellar and enjoy the bounty of your harvest for a longer time.

Answer:  Goats milk is easier to digest than cows milk.

There is a difference in fat molecule size. The fat molecules in goats milk are much smaller than the fat molecules in cows milk. Why does that make a difference? Well, it is similar to making a pot of soup with both large sized vegetables and small sized vegetables. If you cooked the vegetables for the same amount of time, your body would have a harder time digesting (chew, swallow, absorb) the larger vegetables than the smaller ones. This simple difference in the size of the milk’s fat molecules makes it much easier to digest.

Naturally homogenized.  You’ve seen what happens to raw cows milk when you leave it sitting on the self in the refrigerator for a while – it naturally separates and the cream floats to the top.  Well, to avoid this separation the dairy industry processes cows milk to homogenize it.  You’ve seen that printed on your milk cartons in the dairy aisle.  The great thing about goats milk is that it’s naturally homogenized – smooth and consistent without undergoing man-made processing.

Contains less lactose.   Our digestive systems produce enzymes to break down our food, especially sugar.  Goat milk contains less lactose (milk sugar) than cows milk, which makes it easier on your stomach since less of the specific enzymes are needed to break down the lactose.

Less allergenic.  On of the most common allergies in young children (especially under the age of 3) in the U.S. is a dairy allergy and it has a lot to do with a part of the proteins in milk called Alpha Casein.  The levels of Alpha Casein are about 89% less in goat milk which one of the major reasons people who have dairy sensitivities might may be able to consume goats milk and goat milk products as an alternative to cows milk.  

Nutrition.  Goats milk is very nutritious.  It is a great source of protein, contains less sugar (lactose), 13% more calcium, 25% more vitamin B6, 47% more vitamin A, and 134% more potassium than your everyday cows milk.

Taste.  Goat milk is definitely different than cows milk.  Depending of the breed of dairy goat and how they are feed will make a difference in the taste.  We raise Nigerian Dwarf dairy goats.  Last summer a group of elementary school kids came to our homestead for a days of their summer camp activities.  After they were done to the day, we asked them to participle in an experiment.  We offered them two small glass of milk , one was goat milk and one was store bought fresh cows milk.  We didn’t tell them them was which (blind test).  All they had to do was vote on which one they liked better.  The results:  24 out of 25 liked the goats milk better, one child wouldn’t taste either.

We have not bought any dairy products since we began milking goats five years ago.  We drink raw goats milk, make butter, many different hard and soft cheeses, sour cream, yogurt, ricotta, chèvre’, ice cream, etc.  Basically, anything you can buy at the grocery store in the dairy aisle we make out of goat milk.  It is fabulous!  

And if you are not raising your own goat milk, you can still find it in the dairy aisle at most grocery stores.  There are may “must-try” goat milk products to add to your shopping list.  We strongly suggest goat milk cheeses,  goat milk feta (especially on salads), goat milk yogurt, and goat milk ice cream (to die for).  

ENJOY!